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8 Interesting Facts How To Make A Pocket Door From A Regular Door | How To Install A Pocket Door

  • Restoring the only full bathroom in our circa-1900 Victorian duplex launched my husband, Todd, and me on a race for space. We wanted to fit a lot into the small room: tub, toilet, sink, and hopefully a tiny linen closet, too. When we mapped out a design, the floor plan had one stumbling block: the sink obstructed the swing of the bathroom door. So, inspired by two sets of original pocket doors in our living room, we decided to turn our existing bathroom door into a pocket door. - Source: Internet
  • Now you’re ready to attach the split jambs. The split jambs are positioned in two places. The first split jamb is flush with the nailer header; the other is set halfway in the “pocket” of the wall. - Source: Internet
  • If possible, have someone help you mount the pocket door. There is a slot on the doorplate for the “pin” of the hanger to go in. Lift the door and push the pin into the doorplate, then swivel the lock tab into place; repeat with the other hanger and doorplate. - Source: Internet
  • I am renovating a 100 year old house and I am adding a half bath as well. I am widening a closet to facilitate a stackable washer dryer unit and I want to reuse the 24 inch door in a pocket door. Are there any kits to convert old hinge door hardware to pocket door hardware? I am anting to replace the knob with the finger grasp and latch. - Source: Internet
  • Square and plumb the header (for the rough opening) with the studs, making sure the header is level. We used 2x4s for the header and the studs, and secured them with 2″ nails. Depending on the clearance needed under the door, measure up from the finished floor 80 3/4″ to 81 1/2″, which will leave 3/4″ to 1 1/2″ of space at the floor. Then mark each rough stud. At the level of the marks, drive a 2″ nail in the center of each stud, leaving 1/8″ protruding for the pocket door header end brackets to rest on. - Source: Internet
  • If your door is 80″ high—standard size—construct a rough opening of a header and two studs at a minimum height of 84 1/2″. Our old door measured 78 1/2″, so we lowered the header by 1 1/2″, cutting the bottom ends of the split jambs. The width of the rough opening is two times the door’s width plus one inch—for example, if your door is 34″ wide, the opening should be 69″ wide. Additionally, because our pocket door was paneled, we realized that it needed to look centered in the closed position. We calculated the 3/4″ trim for the jamb into the width of our rough opening (69 3/4″). - Source: Internet
  • Next, install finished jambs, split header, and trim. Use screws when attaching the finished jamb to the steel studs on the “pocket” side of opening, just in case you need to remove the door for adjustments in the future. Plumb both jambs with the door; shim if needed. Remember to keep a minimum of 3/16″ clearance between the jamb and the door. Follow by attaching the finished split header and then the trim. - Source: Internet
  • Measuring up from the bottom of the door, fasten the bumper on its back edge halfway up—40″ for a standard door. (For our door, it was 39 1/4″.) At the top of the door, measure in 2″ from each edge and attach the doorplates, with the lock tabs facing the same direction. Insert the hangers onto the track, alternating their wheel positions so the weight is evenly distributed. - Source: Internet
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## Here are some crucial points concerning How To Make A Pocket Door In An Existing Wall:
  • How To Make A Pocket Door From A Regular Door
  • How To Make A Regular Door Into A Pocket Door
  • Convert Regular Door To Pocket Door
  • Pocket Door Conversion Kit
  • Cost To Install Pocket Door In Existing Wall
How To Make A Pocket Door From A Regular Door - How To Install A Pocket Door

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