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  • If the surface in need of caulking is too wet to dry out in good time, you can use a heat gun or even a blow dryer to speed up the process. It’s also worth mentioning here that painterscaulk should only be used to fill seams or voids less than a half-inch in width. Anything wider than that will require some kind of filler like a wooden shim or foam insulation. - Source: Internet
  • Running seams of caulk is often one of the most overlooked stages of prepping a painting project. Along with priming, spackling and sanding, caulking gaps and voids are just as vital a part of the process. It’s so important because it allows for clean and crisp transitions between wall sections, joints and trim. - Source: Internet
  • If you squeeze too lightly and move too fast, that seam isn’t getting filled. Squeeze too hard and move too slow, and you’ll have large globs of caulk everywhere. A medium pace and pressure are key. - Source: Internet
  • If you want to improve the overall appearance of a paint job, it’s a good idea to caulk between the walls and trim moldings to fill any gaps before applying the finish paint. Take care when choosing your caulk to use a paint-able acrylic latex or silicone enhanced acrylic. Don’t use pure silicone for painting, it tends to repel both latex and oil-based coatings causing them to separate while wet and to peel when dry. Pure silicone should only be used for non-painted surfaces like tubs, showers, and tile or for weather-proofing to block drafts. Check here for a video demonstrating how to caulk trim and - Source: Internet
  • When you’ve completely filled the gap or crack, smooth it out with a clean, damp rag. Wet the rag entirely and ring out any excess, then simply use your index finger with the rag held over it to gently smooth over the bead of caulk you just ran. Work in the same direction that you applied the caulk, and don’t press too hard while doing so. - Source: Internet
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